Why heat shields work loose

Almost every car has them: thin aluminium or aluminised steel shields tucked between the exhaust and the things you would rather not cook, such as the fuel tank, brake pipes, wiring loom and floor pan. They are usually held on with spire clips, small flanged bolts, or a bracket with a crush washer, and none of those fixings enjoy the environment they live in. Heat cycling expands and contracts the metal dozens of times on a long journey, engine and road vibration works everything loose, and road salt quietly consumes whatever is left.

What usually happens is that one or two fixings fail first. The shield then hangs on the remaining fasteners, flaps in the airflow and buzzes at certain revs. Eventually a tab cracks, the bolt head rounds off, or the clip pulls through the thin metal altogether. Owners often simply remove the shield, which is a mistake on anything with a plastic fuel tank or a wiring run close to the exhaust. Riveting is often the neatest way to put it back, because a rivet spreads its load over a wider area than a small bolt and never needs access to the back of the panel.

Tools and bits worth having ready

You do not need much, but using the right consumables makes the difference between a repair that lasts five years and one that fails in a fortnight.

  • A pop rivet gun, ideally a lazy-tong or a decent long-arm type for awkward angles.
  • Rivets in 4.8mm (3/16in) as your default, with a handful of 3.2mm (1/8in) for light work.
  • Large-flange aluminium rivets, which are the single best choice for thin heat shield material because the wide head will not pull through.
  • Sealed or closed-end rivets for anything exposed to spray, since the mandrel is captured and the body will not leak.
  • HSS drill bits in 3.2mm, 4.8mm and 6.4mm, plus a centre punch.
  • A wire brush, tin snips, a file, and a scrap of 1mm aluminium or galvanised steel for making repair plates.
  • Mole grips, a small spanner set, and cavity wax or a zinc-rich paint for protection afterwards.

Preparing the shield and the mounting point

Work on a cold exhaust, on axle stands, with eye protection. Old underbody dirt and rust flakes make drilling unpleasant, so brush the area down first. If the shield is still attached at one end, support it with a bungee or a bit of wire rather than letting it hang on a brake pipe.

Drill out the old fixings rather than fighting them. Use a bit the same size as, or a fraction smaller than, the rivet body, and start with a centre punch so the bit does not skate across the thin metal. If a bolt has seized, drill the head off and punch the remains through. Once the shield is free, clean both mating faces with a wire brush and look for cracks radiating from the old holes. Stop-drill the end of any crack with a 3mm bit, otherwise it will keep travelling.

Riveting technique that holds

Keep the original air gap. Heat shields work by creating a still layer of air between the hot part and the panel, so do not pull the shield tight against the floor. A washer or two on the rivet, or a short piece of tube, will maintain the spacing and stop the rattle at the same time.

Where the mounting hole has torn or enlarged, do not simply fit a bigger rivet in the same raggy hole. Cut a small plate from scrap aluminium, about 30mm by 40mm, drill it to match and rivet it over the damaged area, then fasten the shield to the plate. Where the mounting point on the body has rotted away completely, drill a fresh 4.8mm hole in sound metal nearby and use a large-flange rivet there instead.

Think about the metals you are joining. Aluminium rivets into an aluminium shield are fine. Steel or stainless rivets into a steel bracket are strong, but mixing aluminium and steel in a wet area invites galvanic corrosion, so smear a little sealant or zinc paint over the joint afterwards. Near a catalytic converter or a turbo downpipe, heat is high enough that an aluminium rivet can soften, and a steel rivet is the better bet.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Riveting through brake pipes, fuel lines, wiring or the sill structure. Check what is behind the panel before the drill goes in.
  • Crushing the shield flat against the body. You lose the air gap and gain a rattle.
  • Leaving sharp edges on cut plates. File them, then paint them.
  • Forgetting clearance. Spin the wheels, bounce the suspension and check the shield does not touch a driveshaft, tyre or suspension arm on full lock or compression.

Finishing the job properly

Once everything is secure, spray the repaired area with cavity wax or zinc-rich paint, including the rivet heads and any bare metal you exposed. Refit any plastic undertrays, then start the engine and listen for buzzes at idle and at around 2,000rpm, which is where loose shields usually announce themselves. A road test over a few rough surfaces will confirm it.

A securely fixed heat shield also keeps an MoT tester happy, since insecure or missing shields are regularly noted as advisories. Done with a handful of large-flange rivets and a bit of patience, this is a repair that costs pennies and can outlast the car. If you have a rivnut tool in the drawer, it is worth knowing that the same approach works beautifully where you want a threaded fixing back in thin sheet, but for heat shields a plain rivet is usually quicker, lighter and perfectly adequate.

About Author Graphic Designer

Eurorivet Real stories, useful guides and the occasional recommendation, all in one calm corner of the web.

Showing 16 verified guest comments

0123456789 image

Soldman Kell

April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am

"The worst hotel ever"

Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.

image

Burson Lesson

April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am

"Was too noisy and not suitable for business meetings"

Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.

Write a Review

Subscribe To Our Newsletter

Want to be notified when we launch a new template or an udpate. Just sign up and we'll send you a notification by email.

Night
Day